Itinerary: 1 week in Costa Rica, no rental car required

Your car-free guide to exploring Costa Rica’s jungles, cloud forests and beaches

Virtually every travel guide, blog and guru will tell you the same thing: the best way to get around Costa Rica is to rent a car and hit the road. But if driving unfamiliar roads in unpredictable conditions isn’t your cup of tea, don’t despair. If you’re asking yourself, “Do I really need a rental car in Costa Rica?,” the answer in our experience is absolutely not. Read on for how to spend 1 week in Costa Rica, no rental car required.

1 week in Costa Rica at-a-glance

Itinerary options abound in Costa Rica. This guide will take you to 3 main destinations:

• La Fortuna, home to Arenal Volcano and lush rain forest scenery
• Monteverde, where cloud forests make for a bird watcher’s paradise
• Manuel Antonio National Park and its surroundings, where you’ll find pristine beaches and incredible sunsets

Traveling around Costa Rica without a rental car doesn’t need to be complicated – but it does require a bit of upfront planning. Think about which international airport you’ll fly into, whether you’d prefer to travel by private or shared shuttle, and which amenities you’ll prioritize when booking accommodations.

Keep reading – or use the links below – for more detailed guidance on how to plan your car-free week in Costa Rica. Even better? All of our recs for where to stay, eat, drink, and explore are pinned to this Google Map, too.

What to know when booking flights, in-country transportation & accommodations

• Booking flights: San Jose vs. Liberia airports
• Transportation: Private transfers vs. shared shuttles vs. public buses
• Accommodations

Your 1 week, car-free Costa Rica itinerary at-a-glance

• Day 1: Arrive in San Jose
• Day 2: San Jose ➡️ La Fortuna
  • 🚐 Transfer to La Fortuna
  • 🛏️ Stay: Tifakara Boutique Hotel 🔗
• Day 3: La Fortuna
• Day 4: La Fortuna ➡️ Monteverde
  • 🚐 🚤 🚐 Transfer to Monteverde: Jeep > Boat > Jeep
  • 🛏️ Stay: Camino Verde Bed & Breakfast 🔗
• Day 5: Monteverde
• Day 6: Monteverde ➡️ Manuel Antonio
  • 🚐 Transfer to Manuel Antonio
  • 🛏️ Stay: La Vela Boutique Hotel 🔗
• Day 7: Manuel Antonio
• Day 8: Manuel Antonio ➡️ San Jose
  • 🚐 Transfer to San Jose
• Day 9: Depart San Jose

Flights & in-country transportation in Costa Rica

Booking flights: San Jose vs. Liberia airports

Costa Rica has two international airports: Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) in San Jose and Guanacaste Airport (LIR) in Liberia. For the purposes of this itinerary, SJO is more centrally located. That said, this itinerary is totally doable if you’re flying into LIR, too – it will just add a few hours of driving to your round-trip journey. Private and shared shuttles are equally accessible from both airports.

Transportation: Private transfers vs. shared shuttles vs. public buses

Once you’ve landed, you have three options for getting around without a rental car: private transfers, shared shuttles or public buses. To make the most of your limited time in-country, we recommend sticking with private transport or shared shuttles.

Private transfers

Best for parties of 3 or more, if you’re short on time or have limited flexibility with your schedule, or simply don’t enjoy traveling with strangers. Your driver will pick you up in a private, air-conditioned vehicle at a time of your choosing and shuttle you straight to your destination (with stops for bathroom breaks, snacks and photo ops as needed). You’ll pay for the entire vehicle no matter whether you fill just 1 seat or the whole van, so it can be an economical option for larger groups. If you’re lucky, your vehicle may even be Wifi-enabled.

Shared shuttles

Best for solo travelers or those looking for a more budget-friendly option. You’ll choose a set time for pickup based on the shuttle’s schedule, and share a minibus or oversized van with fellow passengers. Plan on building in some buffer time for your transfer, as your shuttle will pick-up and drop-off your traveling mates at their hotels on either end of the journey.

Prices for both options vary depending on both your destination and transfer operator. We booked all of our transfers through Ride CR and had an outstanding experience on every leg of our trip. We’ve included approximate per-person costs for each transfer in the itinerary below (applicable as of March 2022).

Accommodations

Before booking your accommodations, decide whether you’ll prioritize walkability or onsite amenities (like restaurants, pool or beach access, and daytime activities). For example, for easy access to bars, restaurants and shopping in La Fortuna or Monteverde, you’ll want to stay right in town (and will have plenty of options for hostels, hotels and some Airbnbs). But if you prefer a resort with extensive grounds and gourmet dining options onsite, you’ll likely end up at least a few minutes’ drive from the main towns.

Remember, sidewalks are few and far between in towns like La Fortuna, Monteverde and Manuel Antonio. If you choose to walk, assume that you’ll be sharing the roads with cars and be prepared for near total darkness if walking at night. Taxis (and in some cases Ubers) are available but limited; ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you if needed.

Finally, note that in Costa Rica, it’s very common for tour operators to offer pick-up and drop-off at your hotel (included in the cost of your excursion). Even if you choose a more remote resort or hotel, you’ll still have ample opportunities to leave the property, all without needing a rental car.

Your 1-week, car-free Costa Rica itinerary

Now, let’s get to the good part! By following this itinerary to La Fortuna, Monteverde and Manuel Antonio, you’ll experience 3 of Costa Rica’s unique microclimates: the rain forest, the cloud forest and the beach. You’ll also have plenty of opportunities to take part in as much adventure sport-ing, wildlife spotting, and sunbathing as your heart desires.

Day 1: Arrive in San Jose

Fly into Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) in San Jose. If your flight lands at a reasonable hour, we recommend booking your transfer to La Fortuna for pickup at the airport. Otherwise, plan to spend your first night in San Jose. Our flight landed around 9pm on a Saturday night, so we took advantage of the free airport shuttle, checked in at the Courtyard by Marriott San Jose Airport Alajuela and turned in early.

Day 2: San Jose ➡️ La Fortuna

The drive to La Fortuna takes about 3 hours in low-traffic conditions, so plan on getting an early start.

🚐 Transfer to La Fortuna

Book your private or shared transfer ahead of time for pickup at your hotel. Our private transfer from San Jose to La Fortuna with Ride CR cost roughly $80 USD per person ($160 USD total for the entire vehicle) for our party of 2 (plus tip, which is optional but polite in Costa Rica). The drive took less than 3 hours with no traffic (a perk of traveling early on a Sunday morning).

🛏️ Stay: Tifakara Boutique Hotel

We stayed at Tifakara Boutique Hotel, a stunning property that’s steps from the Rio Fortuna waterfall and less than a 10-minute drive from La Fortuna town. The property boasts gorgeous grounds bursting with tropical flowers, a stunning pool, and a high-end restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner (as well as poolside snacks and cocktails).

Our favorite onsite amenity? The complimentary nighttime frog tour. At 7pm each night, guests are invited to don headlamps on a free guided tour of the hotel’s gardens – which, as it turns out, are specifically designed to appeal to all manner of tropical frogs. Pro tip: Wear closed-toe shoes during the frog tour – and keep your eyes peeled for snakes!

Questions about the property? Check out our detailed review of Tifakara Boutique Hotel.

Day 3: La Fortuna

If you only have one full day in La Fortuna (as we did), we highly recommend booking the Arenal One Day combo tour, operated by Seven Tours. On this tour, you’ll hit many of La Fortuna’s highlights – Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, the Rio Fortuna waterfall, and the Arenal Volcano 1968 Lava Flow Trail (our favorite hike of the entire trip!) – all with zero hassle, and with lunch and door-to-door transport included.

Come prepared (and dressed) for a full day of hiking – we covered more than 7.5 miles and the equivalent of 30+ flights of stairs over the course of the tour. And don’t forget to bring a swimsuit, towel and water shoes if you plan to take a dip in the waterfall – there are changing rooms at the park entrance.

Day 4: La Fortuna ➡️ Monteverde

🚐 🚤 🚐 Transfer to Monteverde: Jeep > Boat > Jeep

The most scenic – and most direct – route from La Fortuna to Monteverde is nicknamed “Jeep Boat Jeep” – and for good reason. With this route, your trip is split up into thirds. You’ll be picked up at your hotel in La Fortuna – in our case, on a decommissioned school bus – and ferried to the shore of Lake Arenal.

At that point, you’ll grab your luggage and board a small ferry to cross Lake Arenal, with picturesque views of the Arenal volcano at your back. And finally, you’ll meet the last leg of your transport – a shared jeep or minibus – on the opposite shore, for the last 90 minutes of your journey to Monteverde.

Door-to-door, the journey takes about 4 hours (comparable to driving time in good conditions), but it’s worthwhile for the majestic volcano views and the opportunity to be out on the water. It’s also worth noting that – while you’ll spend less time on winding mountain roads than you would when making the entire journey by car – be prepared for bumpy, unpaved roads, especially during the last third of the journey. If you tend to get carsick, make sure to pack Dramamine or other motion sickness medication.

At only $26 USD per person (booked through Ride CR), our “Jeep Boat Jeep” experience was also one of the most affordable transfers of our trip.

🛏️ Stay: Camino Verde Bed & Breakfast

In Monteverde, we stayed at Camino Verde Bed & Breakfast, which was ideally located and only a 5-minute walk from the main town of Monteverde. The rooms are simply furnished but equipped with all of the essentials. We spent most of our down time at the hotel parked on the large, communal terrace with a stunning view of Monteverde’s lush, tree-covered mountains. The breakfast (included in our room rate) was made-to-order and served with generous portions.

Our favorite part of our stay was by far the hotel staff, who were exceptionally warm and welcoming. Within just a few minutes of our arrival, they had oriented us to the best attractions in Monteverde and helped us arrange multiple excursions.

Questions about the property? Read our detailed review of Camino Verde Bed & Breakfast.

Day 5: Monteverde

Spend your only full day in Monteverde exploring the lush Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. You’ll have to crane your neck to see the tops of the ancient trees. If you’re especially lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of the elusive quetzal. While you can visit the reserve on your own, we highly recommend going with a guide (which your hotel can help coordinate). You’ll learn more about the cloud forest’s unique microclimate – and with help from your guide’s trained eyes, scope and tripod, you’ll have a better shot at spotting wildlife.

If you still have energy in the afternoon, head to Equus Farms for the afternoon horseback ride. You’ll saddle up and spend the afternoon criss-crossing the farm’s extensive, hilly property, with jaw-dropping views as the sun sets over the Gulf of Nicoya.

Day 6: Monteverde ➡️ Manuel Antonio

At this point in the trip, some R&R is finally in order. After having breakfast at your hotel in Monteverde, it’s time to make the trip to Manuel Antonio – more specifically, to Manuel Antonio National Park, where you’ll spend the next few days basking in the sun and surf.

🚐 Transfer to Manuel Antonio

Schedule your private transfer or shared shuttle for first thing in the morning. The drive from Monteverde to Manuel Antonio takes between 4 and 5 hours (closer to 5, if your shuttle stops for souvenir shopping and a photo break with the crocodiles lounging in the shade below the Tarcoles Bridge, as ours did). You’ll want to plan on having at least a few hours of daylight to enjoy the beach after you arrive. Our shared shuttle with Ride CR cost $46 USD per person.

🛏️ Stay: La Vela Boutique Hotel

For those traveling without a rental car, we recommend staying as close to the entrance to Manuel Antonio National Park as possible, rather than in Quepos town (as many guidebooks will suggest). While this pocket of the coast is a bit more subdued – especially in terms of nightlife – versus what you’ll find in Quepos, you’ll still have plenty of available options for restaurants and bars within walking distance.

Also, be warned: sidewalks and shoulders are virtually non-existent, which means you’ll be sharing the narrow roads with cars – so the less walking you have to do, the better.

We loved our stay at La Vela Boutique Hotel, which was a 5-minute walk from the park’s entrance and a 3-minute walk to Espadilla Beach, one of the area’s largest public beaches. The property boasts a beautiful pool, complete with a poolside bar where you can order Funky Monkeys (chocolate and banana smoothies spiked with rum) and oven-fired pizzas. You’ll also make fast friends with the spider monkeys that live on the property, who run circles around the pool area a few times a day and make for great entertainment.

Questions about the property? Check our our detailed review of La Vela Boutique Hotel.

Day 7: Manuel Antonio

Plan on spending a good chunk of the day exploring Manuel Antonio National Park’s jungly trails and pristine, hawker-free beaches. The park is open from 7am to 4pm, every day except Tuesdays. Also note: you must purchase entry tickets ahead of time through the Costa Rican National Park Services’ website. The park itself is quite small and the park service does limit capacity, so we recommend booking your time slot at least a few days in advance.

After an afternoon siesta, head over to Espadilla Beach to watch the sunset – then head to Morpho Beach Bar for dinner and drinks.

Day 8: Manuel Antonio ➡️ San Jose

On our last day in Manuel Antonio, we chose to take it ridiculously easy. We spent the first half of the day back at Playa Manuel Antonio, bobbing in the gentle surf until our fingers were pruned.

Around midday, we headed back to La Vela for showers and a 12pm check-out. With the hotel’s permission, we spent the last few hours before our transfer back to San Jose parked by the hotel pool, sipping frozen Funky Monkeys and soaking up those last rays of Costa Rican sunshine.

🚐 Transfer to San Jose

Our private transfer picked us up late afternoon for the journey back to San Jose. The drive took a little under 4 hours due to traffic (Google Maps estimates about 3 hours without traffic) and including a brief bathroom stop. Our private transfer with Ride CR cost $95 USD per person ($190 USD total), not including tip. We checked back in at the Courtyard by Marriott San Jose Airport Alajuela, where we began our journey a week earlier. It was an early night, as we prepared for our 5:40am flight back the next morning.

Day 9: Depart San Jose

You can depart San Jose anytime you wish. We arrived at the airport at 3:30am ahead of our 5:40am departure and had plenty of time to spare after clearing security. For fellow early birds, note that the VIP Lounge – accessible through Priority Pass and other lounge partners – does not open until 4:30am. Luckily, we still had plenty of time to grab coffee and breakfast before heading to our gate for an on-time departure.

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